Since it's heading into autumn, I decided to sew some woolen pants, so I figured I may as well use the lining as my muslin. It makes sense. Think of a hot dog. It doesn't matter if the outer bread is soft and accommodating it's the sausage skin that splits.
But I feel, shall we say, somewhat exposed standing here in my lining. It's the most unforgiving fabric. It won't behave the same way as the outer, but hey, if you can get sateen to look good then the outer is going to be a cinch.
I tried on my pants inside out, so that I could pin up centre front once on. The good news is that it's more or less OK.
Pant sew along buddies, you can click on the photos to make them bigger. Friends and family ... don't go there, trust me, it's too much information.
For the front I have had to let out the centre front seam in the upper hip area. I think the smile on the front right indicates I need to increase the front crotch/thigh area.
For the side, wrinkes to point to the thigh area. I can see I'm probably going to have to make a full thigh adjustment.
For the back, actually not as bad as it looks. Definitely too short through the back crotch, the seam doesn't reach the elastic marking the waistline. Looks to me like it's too tight through the dierriere and thigh. I'm thinking I'll lengthen the crotch depth, tapering out through the inseam to assist the thigh area as well. I've already adjusted for a flat dierriere, so I don't think scooping more out will help.
I'm going to scale back the vents 1/2 inch - they look funny inside out but they're really great worn the right way out. The fullness at the bottom really helps to balance the thighs.
Pant buddies, do my alterations seem right?
I don't think I've ever owned a pair of fully lined pants before ;-) Very impressive!
ReplyDeleteJ
The only thing I thought of when I looked at your pictures was that the back crotch seam might need lengthening. But you've already mentioned that!
ReplyDeleteYou can read wrinkles! I'm amazed.
Great look... looking forward to the fashion fabric. Seeing your process reminds me of the P/P books. ;D
I've learnt something new about flat derrieres this week, which has changed my pants world. I learnt it by reading the instructions to draft your own pants in Threads (Vol 134?)...and it involves changing the slope of the CB seam to eliminate the baggy wrinkle below (see http://sewblooms.blogspot.com/2008/06/elephant-pants.html for an example of said wrinkles) Basically, slope the CB seam wider from the crotch curve and transfer the amount that is cut out to the side seam. All my RTW pants have that X wrinkle, but I just made a pair of pants that do not have this problem...hopefully I will blog about it soon...just mentioning it because it may reduce your wrinkles in the back. Pants fitting always sends me a little crazy and then I check out everybody else's rear end until I become extremely paranoid about my own and have to stand with my back to a wall. Good luck with yours! k
ReplyDeleteThey are looking good. I have the same problem with the back crotch. I found that I needed to lengthen it quite a bit to get to my waist. good luck and you are on a good path!
ReplyDeleteYou are def. on the case with those wrinkles! I have to say that I love how perfectly the pants taper at the knee -- your actual knee, not the knee of some taller, more long-legged person -- and flare from there. I think these will turn out beautifully.
ReplyDeleteHow you manage to make your sewing blog so funny and interesting to read to a girl like me who is terrible with the sewing machine and sewing directions is beyond me. I think you and Miss Smith should co-write a craft/sewing book and it would sell like hot cakes. If only I were an agent!
ReplyDeleteI'm with you, Paintsmudge. I so totally agree about the sisters. Between the two of them, they keep me in stitches.
ReplyDeleteusing your pants lining as a muslin is inspired. Thanks for sharing your progress with the pants sew along.
ReplyDeleteHey, how fantastic that I get to cash in on Mary Anna's good comments! Thanks Paintsmudge and Geek Sewing, thanks for sharing all the love around!
ReplyDeleteI totally second lengthening the back crotch seam to make the pants go higher in the back. That is a common problem with patterns in my experience. Also I don't know if that's true for you, but I find that slanting the crotch seam is a good idea when raising the back waistline, it helps the seam lie flat against the back.
ReplyDeleteI second Miss Smith's statement - thanks blogging buddies for your kind words.
ReplyDeleteThese look good and I like the fact that you used lining for your muslin. The one adjustment you mentioned sounds good!! Cant wait to see the finished product.
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