Monday, March 2, 2009

Pant progress

Yesterday saw the start of the pant sew along and I have got off to a good start by tracing the pattern and doing the first tissue fit. After comparing the draft with my trouser sloper it became apparent that there was less than an inch ease allowance through the thigh. When Burda say fitted, they MEAN IT. In fact, there is about an inch ease throughout (the usual amount is 3-4 inches). Morning tea is strictly off the agenda for the next month.

Still bruised from the A+O pant debacle, I opted for a 16 (42) and did a full waist adjustment by squaring off the front fly. It soon became apparent that this would not be enough, and I have since added another 5/8 inch from mid hip to waist.

I chuckled to myself a lot as I was doing my adjustments because I could hear Palmer/Plesch's kind euphemisms in my ears. "Add 1 inch -just in case - seams through the waist and hip." .... Just in case you bust out of 'em. "Move the dart over towards the side where you need it to slide over your fluff" Fluff? That would be 'fat' to you or me.

Anyway, it ended up being quite a time consuming process. I had to redraft the pockets because I had adjusted all the seams they fed into. I left a few things off in the tracing - key sewing and placement lines, and had to go back to put them on. I also broke the large 1 1/2 inch back dart down into 2 small darts so they would slide more easily over my fluff.

Anyway, I have an unfair advantage over my sew-along buddies. I have one child who sleeps for several hours every afternoon, and I don't have any paid employment to swallow up my free time. To even up the stakes, I have decided to give myself a handicap, and sew a matching top to go with the trousers, also to complete by the end of the month.

If I wanted to give myself a real handicap, I would sew it in silk chiffon.


  1. Great start, I'm still struggling with the drafting.

    I'd love to see a silk chiffon suit ;o)

  2. Wow, only 1 inch! That sounds crazy tight. But the shape of the pants, with the fitted hips and generous hem width, is very appealing - it's one of my favorite shapes actually. Looking forward to see more updates

  3. You crack me up. An inch ease throughout? Perhaps these Burda pants also expect you to skip breakfast, as I have this morning.

    My blueberry scones are burnt!

    I forgot about checking the pockets after a redraft. Thanks for the reminder.

  4. Here's a handicap:
    Slim-fitting white silk chiffon pants. Okay they'd be hideous, but hey what a a challenge!