Sewing FOPs (for other people)

I have been true to my word. I have been sewing for others all November.

I have

1) hemmed 2 pairs of trousers for my husband

2) made 3 aprons. A word about the aprons. Aprons make great gifts, I've discovered. Like socks and underpants, everyone needs them but they never get around to buying them often enough. Aprons are all occasion gifts, saying "I care" from birthdays to bereavements. Aprons require no fitting, can be made in under an hour and can be made from offcuts making them very cost effective.

I have made just one change to Simplicity 2824 - removed the D-rings and added a slider. The D rings mean that the strap hung awkwardly upside down but the slider enables it to drape itself gracefully.



3) Made a bolster for our cleaner. This shows how I've matured as a person. 3 years ago, I told her "no way" when she asked me to do some alterations for her. Now 3 more years of selfishness has been drained out of me by a child.

This was not an easy project - the fabric, a synthetic upholstery grade polyester was left over from her curtains. It did not want to ease and could not be folded. It hugs the lumps of the bolster like lycra on an overweight gym enthusiast. The ends then had to be fitted, which is difficult with circles even with easy fabric, and even more tricky when you factor in the piping. I hope she likes it because it was about as far from fun to make as, well, any of the other projects above.

And if she asks me for another forget it. Maturer, yes, an idiot, no.



And finally some GF/DF cooking. I have been experimenting with the best way to present my findings - I tried an extra page but it's not easy to update since you can't make separate posts. In the end I decided I would just tack it on at the end of a post and those who are interested can read on.

This is the best recipe for GF/DF bread I have found so far.

I have tried 5 internet recipes - 3 of them were inedible, and immediately binned. Absolutely vile. If a recipe goes on about its health content you know you are in trouble.

To make this bread in a bread maker you have to reduce the water content. Instead of 3/4 cup, I found 1/2 cup with 2 extra tablespoons of water to be just right. I also add 1/4 cup of sunflower seeds and 1 tablespoon of chia seeds. It tastes really nice and keeps well.



Righty ho, we are only half way through the month, so half a month more of FOPs to go!

Nerd alert!

Ottobre 05-2007-08 Jersey shirt blouse

I have a confession to make. Part of the appeal of Ottobre to me is that the designs are often a little on the frumpy side. And since frumpy is a little ugly, a little ungainly, a little anti-fashion and extremely comfortable I rather like it.



The compulsory hand on hip, grimace at the camera nerd shot. I am only sorry I don't have a rubbish bin in the back ground to complement the look. Sigh, weeds will just have to do. (respectful sly wink to you Carolyn)



I added shirring elastic to pull in the back as it was very big on me.



This was supposed to be a shirt to go under the v neck tee to complete my "look" for October. But as you know, the neckline was ridiculously high and I haven't got back to the tee yet, so they're mix and match separates for the time being.

The colours are dreadful on me I know. I probably won't wear this shirt except under a cardy or pullover in a more sympathetic colour way. Or save it for Halloween, might be handy to look really pale sometimes. Come to think of it, it could be a good one to put away for when I go back to work and need to pull a sickie.

The real lesson for me though, is that this top does have great potential. It would be good in a dark colour, short sleeved, and some of the fit issues refined. Now, I've recognised this to be true. I have identified that I could be on to a winner here. But will I follow through, or will I get distracted before I really get a chance to make something I really enjoy wearing?

You see, in the past I have made test garments, identified potential, but never made the final garment. I have done that many times. I am very easily distracted by the latest thing. This is not a good thing if you actually HAVE TO wear the garments you sew because you have nothing else.

This month's theme is "not for me November" - yes boring xmas gifts, mending for husband, birthday presents for a couple of people etc etc. But I might just see if I can make this shirt again, just to show that I can learn from my mistakes after all.

A couple of quickies.

Here is the next part of my outfit. The humble tee - none other than the basic tee pattern from Ottobre, 02-2006-01. It has a simple v neck..



.. which is so very modest. I can't help but think of my Burda and their plunging necklines and think that although geographically so close, (Finland and Germany) the magazines could not be further apart in aesthetic. Ottobre excels in the quotidian, whereas Burda is fashion forward. Ottobre is modest but if its a Burda pattern I know to lengthen the skirt and raise the neckline.



I also managed to whip up this apron as a thank you gift for a stranger who returned my car keys. I liked the idea of Simplicity 2824 because it allows you to alter the neck strap. This is handy if you have no idea what proportions the person you are making this gift for has. As you can see, the neck can be lengthened or shortened via D-rngs.



The pattern is from their "sewing for dummies" range. (cut your fabric using scissors, thread your machine before sewing, that kind of thing). It was so amusing to read something where NOTHING is taken for granted.

I was going to complete my outfit with a nice'n'nerdy cardigan. Then I saw it made up elsewhere and realised it was horrid. There's a very fine line with ugly - just get it slightly wrong and it doesn't work. So now I'm a little unsure about what my next step will be. Corduroy jacket? A spring parka? Waistcoat? Pullover?

Hmmmm.

Outfit October

Well hello again! I have just come back from a lovely holiday in Central Otago, where one of my sisters live. Before then, I had set my sewing goal for October to sew a complete outfit. The first part of the outfit I had in mind didn't work out. That's a short sentence without a long story behind it, maybe for another post.

In the meantime, using 2 purchases from my holiday down south as my inspiration, I came up with the first part of an alternate outfit. I bought this *cool* tooled leather bag for $3 from the Ranfurly women's Catholic league, open Wednesdays and Fridays only and closed for a generous lunch break on those days to boot.



The second part of my inspiration was a hilarious pair of arm warmers - something I had never seen before but I've been wearing them ever since. They solve the problem of how to breach the seasons with short sleeve wool knits - you use detachable sleeves! I bought these from the Naseby craft shop.



Well tooled leather and arm warmers are begging for super snuggly fabric. I immediately thought of corduroy, mainly because it is so much nicer to put on than denim. The nights down south were still cold, with frosts, and the inside temperature of the crib (holiday house) dropped to zero (celcius) when the sun went down. The only way to heat the house was with a log burner and the hot water was on a coal range wet back so we had to light that too if we wanted any warm water.

I haven't been so cold for many years, the northern climate totally softening me up. Thank goodness we came in spring.

The pattern is one I've made before Burda 09-2009-113. It's the pair of cords with the interesting slanted pocket design, which you can see in the corner here.



I put binding round the pockets



and used the same fabric for the waistband inner, fly extension and front pocket lining



Put it all together and you get the first variation of Outfit October





I leave you with this shop display from the Maniototo ceramics club. Someone down there really loves china ducks. I just love the way they have been festooned with ribbons.

Here's where we started - Kwik sew 3463. A lovely heavy merino (wool) knit. Fabric too heavy for this design, and too much stretch. I think if the fabric were lighter and drapier the loose style would be fine, but this is not the kind of knit that wants to be made up with room to spare. It's a touchy feely huggy kind of fabric.



Oh how I wish I could take the time to get a decent photo at the right time of day. I know there are other bloggers in my position (young children chomping at the bit) who would wait several days to get a good shot because they wouldn't sully their beauty spot with crap photography. I am not one of those bloggers. I take my moments when I find them and sometimes they are just a few seconds before dusk.




To the back, I added a elastic casing and pulled in the waist. I reduced the whole tunic one size. I added a bottom band, which I made a little smaller so I could gather in the a-line slightly. The tie you can see is what I attached to the ends of the elastic I threaded trough the neck band so I could pull in the upper torso.



A more detailed shot of the front - I added the tie pockets to match the back tie and you can see the effects of the gathering on the front neckline. I tried to make the top dress length, because I don't wear a lot of tunics, but I can see proportionally it's not working for me - the whole dress is too heavy and it needs something solid to ground it - some boots would work, or some skinny jeans underneath. And here's another thing to consider - if it's cool enough to wear wool, it's too cool for short sleeves.

Learning, learning, always learning.



Still I am much happier with this incarnation and some restyling could just make it.

Well I had another 2 things to work on in my "remix" box which I never got a chance to for my September challenge. One month self-challenges work really well for me. Long enough to keep me focussed, not too long to become arduous, and every month I get to come up with a new naff title!

Tell me, who could resist?

Tartan jacket

Burda 05-2009-112



The back, with the box pleat and the elasticated sleeve band, are really nice features I think.



Although I really liked my twist bubble skirt I could see it wasn't working for me. Fortunately the pleats used a lot of fabric which was easy to repurpose.




I saw a very funky outfit in a cafe recently - a simple skirt and top with a gorgeous plaid jacket and a hand crocheted scarf and suddenly I really wanted a plaid jacket.

I was a little hesitant about the style on me since the line under the bust and the bold fabric are what my husband calls "brave design decisions."

I liked this pattern because it was made of lots of small pieces so I could use the skirt pieces running with the grain and I had enough scraps left to cut out the bottom half and match the side check too. I couldn't do anything really clever with the other bits because I didn't have enough fabric, and I am a little relieved about that because plaid matching is something that makes me cross-eyed.

And who can argue with those "eat all you like" tummy pleats? Definitely a jacket for a night out.



I made some important "learning experiences" with this jacket which I want to share with you so you too can *learn*.

I put in one of the welts back to front, ripped it out, and then reinserted it upside down! Third time I got it right, but I had damaged the fabric quite a lot with all the unpicking and resewing. The golden rule of welt sewing should be "interface under the pocket before you cut to the corner" for such eventualities - it really helps to hold the fabric together.

All in all - considering I cut and resewed it three times it doesn't look too bad:



The other mistake is that I didn't read the instructions carefully enough for the front zipper. I am still kicking myself for rushing ahead without double checking - I wanted to make sure the lines across the jacket matched when the zipper was up, so I used 'steam a seam' to secure the front zipper in place. As you know, that stuff sets like concrete. Once I had steamed it in, there is no moving that zipper. Imagine my horror on realising that by attaching the front 1 cm back from the teeth that I had inadvertently increased the front by a size!

The whole point was to make it so fitted through and under the bust to avoid that 'puppies in a sack' look!

And no way to fix it! In the end, I took in the side seams which in itself was no easy task since the under bust bias strip is attached over the top, meaning I had to resew it as well.

But I am really pleased with the end result. I really like my jacket - while not the most flattering shape for me, I think it works well enough. It also adds a nice layer of warmth for our blustery spring days.



I hope to manage one more "selvage/salvage" (thank you Carolyn) project for September, and then it's time to welcome "outfits October!"

Selvage September

Alliterative September themes are popular in blogworld and I thought I'd add one of my own. I want to rework some duds - things where I was quite invested because I made a good job of them, or I loved the fabric, or I just couldn't quite admit defeat just yet.

These jeans - the madras pants ( 06-2011-109 ) are a case in point. From a technical point of view they look like they could be made into jeans - but in reality they are designed for a SOFTLY DRAPING FABRIC. Way too much ease for denim. That is my mistake entirely and I still see great potential for this pattern.




However, I had made a nice job with the topstiching and following KBenco's lead, had finished the waistband with bias (made from Liberty fabric). In short, I was too invested in these to let them go. So I reworked them.




Here's what I did - on the front I sewed straight down from the zipper and cut off the hem just as the bootleg started to flare out again, creating a mermaid type hem.



On the back, 8 1/2 inches down (20 cms) I inserted a godet, and sloped out the hem to create a mermaid tail, adding a few lines of ruffles to suggest scales. The godet was cut from the bottom half of the pant leg, it was a little short, so the ruffles are on a separate panel. I was able to resew this skirt using pieces entirely from the original jeans, so it bodes well with other pants in my wardrobe needing a little rethinking. The godet is the only essential design feature, as you need to remove the crotch, but I imagine there are endlessly possibilities for incorporating it, so I might try a few different looks.



Eh voila! One dud now creatively reworked into my wardrobe. I will wear this skirt, as I am very fond of the quirk factor in clothing. I wouldn't have worn the jeans - not just because they were a little baggy, but they were "butt munchers" - you know the type where you can feel the crotch seam gnawing at your knickers. I tried scooping more out but it didn't work - something else is wrong so I might need to get a lesson or two from a private teacher to sort that out. (good to know when you just don't know enough to fix it yourself).