Monday, September 26, 2011

Tartan jacket

Burda 05-2009-112



The back, with the box pleat and the elasticated sleeve band, are really nice features I think.



Although I really liked my twist bubble skirt I could see it wasn't working for me. Fortunately the pleats used a lot of fabric which was easy to repurpose.




I saw a very funky outfit in a cafe recently - a simple skirt and top with a gorgeous plaid jacket and a hand crocheted scarf and suddenly I really wanted a plaid jacket.

I was a little hesitant about the style on me since the line under the bust and the bold fabric are what my husband calls "brave design decisions."

I liked this pattern because it was made of lots of small pieces so I could use the skirt pieces running with the grain and I had enough scraps left to cut out the bottom half and match the side check too. I couldn't do anything really clever with the other bits because I didn't have enough fabric, and I am a little relieved about that because plaid matching is something that makes me cross-eyed.

And who can argue with those "eat all you like" tummy pleats? Definitely a jacket for a night out.



I made some important "learning experiences" with this jacket which I want to share with you so you too can *learn*.

I put in one of the welts back to front, ripped it out, and then reinserted it upside down! Third time I got it right, but I had damaged the fabric quite a lot with all the unpicking and resewing. The golden rule of welt sewing should be "interface under the pocket before you cut to the corner" for such eventualities - it really helps to hold the fabric together.

All in all - considering I cut and resewed it three times it doesn't look too bad:



The other mistake is that I didn't read the instructions carefully enough for the front zipper. I am still kicking myself for rushing ahead without double checking - I wanted to make sure the lines across the jacket matched when the zipper was up, so I used 'steam a seam' to secure the front zipper in place. As you know, that stuff sets like concrete. Once I had steamed it in, there is no moving that zipper. Imagine my horror on realising that by attaching the front 1 cm back from the teeth that I had inadvertently increased the front by a size!

The whole point was to make it so fitted through and under the bust to avoid that 'puppies in a sack' look!

And no way to fix it! In the end, I took in the side seams which in itself was no easy task since the under bust bias strip is attached over the top, meaning I had to resew it as well.

But I am really pleased with the end result. I really like my jacket - while not the most flattering shape for me, I think it works well enough. It also adds a nice layer of warmth for our blustery spring days.



I hope to manage one more "selvage/salvage" (thank you Carolyn) project for September, and then it's time to welcome "outfits October!"

14 comments:

  1. How fun to see your version of this pattern. I like it much better in a jacket-weight fabric. I actually think the style is good on you.

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  2. I have always liked navy and green plaid. This jacket is awesome. I love the unique design and you did a fantastic job persevering through your challenges. I agree with Joy and Belinda, this style looks good on you!

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  3. Wow, that pattern really does look like the opposite of the "it's so easy" pattern I'm sewing at the moment, i.e., IT'S SO HARD! I liked the skirt but actually I like this jacket better. It has hints of 'old man', in the nicest possible way of course.

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  4. It is lovely! And I hope I didn't offend you with my comment... I'm sorry if you were. I certainly didn't intend to.

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  5. I like this tartan, and I think the pattern shows to better effect in the jacket. I would hate to have to pattern match with repurposed fabric, I need lots of extra for this sort of thing.
    I admire your perseverence. The unpicking and resewing sounds faintly nightmarish, but the finished jacket shows no sign of its construction troubles, very sharp.

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  6. Another fabulous jacket creation! It sounds like a lot of work, especially considering you had to make it up into a skirt first. I really love this jacket and think that it is a much more flattering garment than the twist bubble skirt. I am trying to clear my wardrobe of all those garments that I lovingly made but do not flatter me (though admitting that they don't flatter seems to be the hardest step). And I have to confess...I still have never made a proper welt pocket, so as always, am in awe of yours.

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  7. I have to say I love this! Probably for all the wrong reasons, too. It reminds me of a cross between a girl's school uniform and the uniform tops that aestheticians wear (not that I get many manicures in life, but hey ho.) There is sort of a funky-functional-traditional thing going on here. It just looks like so much fun to wear and it seems to me that it would go with just about anything too.

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  8. Fabulous! And I hope you don't mind my saying so, much better than the skirt. Smashing job on the matching checks, but the painful pocket doesn't look hacked at all. And I don't see why you say the waist is too high - what looks bad is a too-high waist going over the bust. One so well handled, right in the proper place, looks perfect, and imho suits you well.

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  9. Your jacket is terrific. I like the styling and the details.

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  10. I love this jacket! I think it looks great on you! I actually made a muslin of this last month. I have fabric all picked out for it, but I haven't started because I haven't been able to find the right zipper. After seeing your jacket, I'm going to look some more this weekend!

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  11. I like this much better than the skirt and can imagine it getting a lot of wear. Your husband sounds like an astute diplomat!

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  12. What a great save! Although I did like the skirt, I think the jacket is even better.

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  13. I love this on you, and think it's really flattering. I can't believe you unpicked that pocket twice and came out with it still looking great!

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