Sunday, August 8, 2010

Burda trench jacket 03-2009-114



Back details - storm flap, and belt tied at the back to pull in the back waist.



Sometimes I just don't know if a style is too old or too young until I've made it. In the case of this trench jacket, it's not that the style is too old or too young, it's the fabric. I never thought about fabric being age appropriate but this is simply too mature for my early middle years.

Despite this jacket being Not Quite Right I've got a soft spot for it: I'm fond of a little "frump" strange as it may seem. But more importantly, it is the living embodiment of my philosophy that it is a good thing for a home sewer to experiment and take risks with their sewing. It's perfectly OK to make stuff you would never dream of buying, let alone try on if you saw it in a shop - you are taking a risk with your vision.

The story of how I came by the fabric is a funny one. I got an email from my Sewing Guild buddies to say that Jane Daniels was having a fabric sale. Jane Daniels is an upmarket designer who designs for conservative older women, the type who have "investment" wardrobes. I took my son along with me and he wreaked havoc through the bolts of delicate silk and voiles. In the end I just grabbed a few things, whatever caught my eye. In amoungst the silks was this, and as soon as I lay my paw on it I thought, "this isn't silk." But no matter - at that stage my son was lying on the floor with flailing arms and legs pulling the most spectacular paddy so I just bought it. When I got home and did a burn test I was dismayed to find I'd bought polyester. Polyester in a humid climate is very very unpleasant, what's more I'd paid $20 for it - which wasn't even a bargain. It's a dense fabric with a lot of body, probably a taffeta, so I decided to cut my losses and make a jacket. I could line it with something more breathable and the stiff hand of the fabric would suit itself to a structured shape. What's more, it wouldn't be ruined in a downpour, which is a real consideration in this climate.

Still at the end of the day, this is a matriarch's jacket trench. It says to me, "maori hill/fendalton/wadestown/remuera/insert conservative-old-money-suburb-of-your-choice/ lady."

This is my free choice option for the wardrobe contest - I am limping to the finish line, determined to finish for reasons I can't even justify to myself. I can honestly say that sewing whatever you feel like produces a wardrobe that looks like you sewed whatever you felt like.


And that's OK with me too.

Details: the front gun flap, rolled sleeve, pleated pocket and mature fabric:

16 comments:

  1. Beautifully sewn as always Mary Anna. I'm afraid I agree with your verdict about the fabric though.

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  2. I'm a bit of two minds about the fabric - I would like to see if it could be styled with a little pop of colour somewhere (scarf? top?)

    Anyway I think you made good use out of a fabric many may have left at the bottom of the stash (only because it was poly, I mean).

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  3. Wow i was still thinking up my comment for your last post -about that gorgeous dress - and then you whip this one up.Im with Miss SMith on this one I think. Thrilled to hear your childcare arrangements have made some progress. Best of luck

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  4. When I looked at the distance shot, I thought the fabric had an Asian influence, which I like. If I hadn't read your description and seen the close up, I wouldn't have thought twice about it. But then you told me it was polyester and I am such a fabric snob...

    Anyway, cheering you all the way to the SWAP finish line. I can't wait to see all the garments you make from your magazine subscription.

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  5. I think you need to wear it with slim black pants and a silky purple shirt and it will look "mature" and sexy - the best look! And I agree with your clothing philosophy completely. I also make some "frump". Otherwise what will I wear while I clean the windows? Hot pants not good for that! And kids squirm at "young-sexy" at the parent-teacher meetings - at least not after the age of six.

    Hatty

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  6. Beautifully sewn jacket. Why do you think this fabric is ageing and frumpy? Its the collar of the skirt under, not the jacket.

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  7. I'd wear it! I agree that you could give it a more youthful vibe with some bright colors or funky accessories. Isn't "frump" in right now? You've been zipping to the finish line with your wardrobe. I know you'll feel good to have it done.

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  8. Hmmmm.... I agree with your conclusion on it being a bit matronly fabric wise, but I like the silhouette on you. And I enjoyed your description of taking your son along with you. Sometimes Jack comes along on emergency fabric shopping trips. And, yes, there is such a thing as emergency fabric shopping.

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  9. Lovely jacket and I have to agree that it's a bit too old for you. I am 53 and it would be perfect for me. I'll email you my address.
    JUST KIDDING.

    You have really achieved a beautiful fit in all the garments I see on your blog. I would have never guessed the size difference between your shoulders and bust (as you mentioned in your comment on my blog). Thus the excellent fit achieves the goal of flattering you and giving you a wonderfully well balanced effect.

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  10. I'm sorry that the fabric wasn't what you wanted, but I love the details on that trench. I never knew that that flap on the front was called a gun flap.

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  11. And there's a problem with looking like you belong in an old-money suburb? Give me Maori Hill over South Dunedin! (I like it anyway.)

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  12. I hear you about fabric having an "age." I often look at fabrics and think— pretty but too old for me. Especially if they have a lot of decoration or certain kinds of texture. I wonder what makes a fabric look younger or older? Anyway, I'm curious what this would look like worn with one of your "younger" items— the previous dress or the shorter skirt from before.

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  13. I can see how you might think this fabric too mature, but I think it's all in the styling. Personally, I love the print and the colours. I would wear this with a dirty limey olive green top underneath, preferably a scoop neck long sleeve t. Over jeans or a funky denim skirt with lime green tights I think it would look great. I like the juxtaposition of things like that.

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  14. Put me in with Marg. I was still chortling over the boob shot and thinking of what to say and you've already whipped up another garment. I think it looks great, which might say more about my age I suppose but it looks really smart to me. I think risk taking is essential for any creative process.

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  15. The jacket is wonderfully sewn. Yes, the fabric is a bit mature looking (as you so eloquently put it).
    I am catching up on blogs tonight. You have taught me the word "paddy". Eugenia taught me "faffing".
    It has been an educational evening!! I hope to enliven my vocabulary in the near future!!

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  16. The jacket's wonderful, beautiful, and beautifully made, and the fabric colour & pattern are fun, at least in the pics. The blouse under it's the problem - how about you try the jacket with a simple tee, or a turtleneck in a coordinating colour? Um, I'd also ditch the navy belt... maybe replace it with a buttoned-on, self-coloured half-belt instead?

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