The *phwoar* top Burda 06-2010 #139

Ok, I admit defeat - thanks to ugly jacket that doesn't go with ANY of my wardrobe items I am not going to make the deadline to finish my 10 garments.

My sister and I were discussing whether it could be saved in our weekly phone catch-up.
I suggested an outfit I thought might work with ugly trench.
"Maw maw maw you just cannot get reliable tradespeople these days."
I suggested another outfit that I thought it might work with.
"oh that was Lady Pen on the phone confirming her attendance at luncheon on Friday, the dear man at the bank got us a booking at Alfridges."
So I gave up, and suggested it might match quite well with the inside of the rubbish bin.

When the going gets tough, the wise re-evaluate their options and MOVE ON.

And what a pleasant little move on number this is.



When I saw this Burda plus size pattern I knew it was for me, but I also knew I was going to have to work hard on the pattern. For a start, when Burda says something has a "plunging neckline" you know that it must be exceedingly low. Out of curiousity I thought I'd make the muslin up in a straight 44 (with narrow neck/back alteration) to see how low it would go. I don't have a photo of it and even if I did I'd consider putting an R rating on it. Tell me, do you know who actually feels comfortable with 2 inches of cleavage on display?

It has the most adorable balloon sleeve which is created by elastic casing inside the sleeve hem.



I also perfected making my own vilene bias tape. The secret is to use top quality interfacing and a super sharp fine needle (something like a brand new 70/10, I used a microtex) and go slow. The interfacing can be light to medium weight but no heavier unless you really want cardboard in your seams. The needle has to be light and sharp so that it can easily pierce the fine weave of the interfacing without pushing it through where it can bet tangled up in the bobbin (ask me how etc). You need to sew slowly otherwise the thread tangles and breaks. All you do is cut bias strips half an inch wide of interfacing and sew a normal stitch down the middle. Then you centre the stitch of your tape over the seam line and press it into place. It stops the fabric from stretching out when you sew it and helps the garment to hold its shape. It works in a similar way to clear elastic but because it is interfacing you can attach it to areas where clear elastic might not work, such as armholes etc.

Here is mine. This is not the best quality interfacing and in time, the edges will lift. No matter, the chain stitch is now sewn into the seams so it will still hold its shape.




In our household we have nicknamed this top the "phwoar" top because just as Burda promises, "the gathered centre front seam nicely emphaiszes your feminine curves." And a few other feminine shapes as well, some of them not quite so nice. Shapewear is the order of the day, ladies.