Monday, August 16, 2010

The *phwoar* top Burda 06-2010 #139

Ok, I admit defeat - thanks to ugly jacket that doesn't go with ANY of my wardrobe items I am not going to make the deadline to finish my 10 garments.

My sister and I were discussing whether it could be saved in our weekly phone catch-up.
I suggested an outfit I thought might work with ugly trench.
"Maw maw maw you just cannot get reliable tradespeople these days."
I suggested another outfit that I thought it might work with.
"oh that was Lady Pen on the phone confirming her attendance at luncheon on Friday, the dear man at the bank got us a booking at Alfridges."
So I gave up, and suggested it might match quite well with the inside of the rubbish bin.

When the going gets tough, the wise re-evaluate their options and MOVE ON.

And what a pleasant little move on number this is.

When I saw this Burda plus size pattern I knew it was for me, but I also knew I was going to have to work hard on the pattern. For a start, when Burda says something has a "plunging neckline" you know that it must be exceedingly low. Out of curiousity I thought I'd make the muslin up in a straight 44 (with narrow neck/back alteration) to see how low it would go. I don't have a photo of it and even if I did I'd consider putting an R rating on it. Tell me, do you know who actually feels comfortable with 2 inches of cleavage on display?

It has the most adorable balloon sleeve which is created by elastic casing inside the sleeve hem.

I also perfected making my own vilene bias tape. The secret is to use top quality interfacing and a super sharp fine needle (something like a brand new 70/10, I used a microtex) and go slow. The interfacing can be light to medium weight but no heavier unless you really want cardboard in your seams. The needle has to be light and sharp so that it can easily pierce the fine weave of the interfacing without pushing it through where it can bet tangled up in the bobbin (ask me how etc). You need to sew slowly otherwise the thread tangles and breaks. All you do is cut bias strips half an inch wide of interfacing and sew a normal stitch down the middle. Then you centre the stitch of your tape over the seam line and press it into place. It stops the fabric from stretching out when you sew it and helps the garment to hold its shape. It works in a similar way to clear elastic but because it is interfacing you can attach it to areas where clear elastic might not work, such as armholes etc.

Here is mine. This is not the best quality interfacing and in time, the edges will lift. No matter, the chain stitch is now sewn into the seams so it will still hold its shape.

In our household we have nicknamed this top the "phwoar" top because just as Burda promises, "the gathered centre front seam nicely emphaiszes your feminine curves." And a few other feminine shapes as well, some of them not quite so nice. Shapewear is the order of the day, ladies.


  1. What a cute top! Peter laughed when he read your bio saying that you do not sew to colours or shapes etc etc. Whatever, that colour looks fab on you! Do you think maybe Germans are all getting about with plunging necklines? I always imagine so when I read the Burda mags.

  2. Love it! That colour looks gorgeous :)

  3. Wow this is awesome on you - fab colour! And the sleeve is so nicely finished.
    I must try that bias tape sometime, but first I must do something about my sole remaining blunt needle!

  4. Only last night I was thinking that I might attempt to grade this pattern down to my size. I love it and the colour you've made it in is really nice. I will remember to raise the neckline!

  5. Love the top.
    Great colour, cute sleeves.

  6. Cute top! I noticed that top too and really liked it. I decided it wouldn't be for me though. I am nearly flat chested and these sort of tops always look a bit like a broken promise on me. But on you it looks marvelous! I am glad to see it made up.

  7. Cute top- somehow I missed that one.
    Great tip on making your own stabilizing tape. I don't know where that can be bought in the US, but I bought some from a UK vendor once to see if I liked it (I did).

  8. I have seriously considered a trip to Germany just to make a concerted effort to look at cleavage.


    I mean, to see if there IS cleavage or if it's just some weird world where the Burda people live. Sort of like the world where the Vogue people live, but with tacky crafts.

    Nice (colorful) top, though!

  9. Really lovely shirt - you're right, it suits you well.

  10. I love love love this top!!! So much that I have toyed with the idea of grading it down for myself - and I am far to lazy to even contemplate that typically. It looks absolutely wonderful on you, and that color is stunning.

  11. Oh that looks so cute and great with the skirt! Love the outfit again. Thanks for the tip on making your stabilizing tape— I will be using that one.

  12. Oh I love that colour, I just bought a merino from Shanton in that shade of turquoise.
    Nice work!

  13. I am getting really frustrated with Burda's collar to navel look. Perhaps you give post a tutorial on how to raise the neckline? You top looks great BTW!

  14. What a cute top!! I just love that color - it is very becoming on you!
    You are quite into the plunging necklines of late. It is becoming a trend!!

  15. Your "phwoar" top is wonderful! Wear it with pride and consider making a long sleeved version. It looks great on you!

  16. Terrific top. I bet it would scare lady Pen and the others at Alfridges, which would be a good thing, definitely not frumpy.

    I will be making some vilene tape. I didn't see any in the UK, and I was looking!(must have been in the wrong place). Thanks for the tutorial.

  17. Ooh I've just put that top on my list to make for my daughter. Good tip about neckline.
    I got myself a roll of that vilene tape, either from spotlight or designer textiles. Can't remember which one. Miraculous stuff that.
    I still reckon that jacket would look great with mauve harem pants and a gold spangly singlet...

  18. Genny I can totally see that working - the gold would add some much needed colour and the harem pants would modernise it.

  19. Shame wearing harem pants feels like you've got a wet nappy on though.

    But I double dog dare you!

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