Front detail Burda 09-2009-113
"When I see people dressed in hideous clothes that look all wrong on them, I try to imagine the moment when they were buying them and thought, "this is great. I like it. I'll take it." Andy Warhol
I was totally bummed about the failure that was the Jalie stretch jeans. Determined to learn from my mistakes I reflected on all the factors that contributed to their downfall.
1) I did not like the fabric.
2) The fabric was the wrong weight for the project.
3) The fabric was the wrong colour both for the project and for me personally.
4) I made the mistake of assuming that the jeans looking good on other people would mean they would look good on me. (the old, "love it on the model," factor)
5) I ignored the fact that I do not actually like stretch jeans on me.
6) I was in too much of a hurry to get into the sewing room and start sewing without creating a space for critical thinking and reflection. Questions like "is making this a good idea?" did not get the space they needed to find their true answer, which in this case would have been "no". Don't get me wrong - I'm all for taking risks and wadders are a necessary part of the learning process, and I'd rather have wadders a plenty than not try something I really want to make. But really, more thought was required on this one.
7) I am someone who needs to see a pattern and then pick the perfect fabric for it, not the other way round. Using up stash does not work for me in this way, except as maybe fodder for wearable muslins.
I took some time off to do some research and spent an afternoon reading these books:
For Valentine's day, my husband gave me the best present - 6 hours uninterrupted sewing time. I traced the Burda jeans from the September issue 2009...and as a little momento from the Jalie jeans I used their back pocket pattern piece and put a x (kiss) and o (hug) on the back. (the burda jean has no back pocktets). I also chose some fabric from stash to serve as my "wearable muslin."
Check out the difference in the pattern pieces - both are cut to a Burda 42 (16) Jalie size "w" - although the burda pattern has no back yoke so it extends further up. Let's look at the "pour factor" - that's what 20% stretch looks like friends - the difference is what wants to embrace your little touche, and grasp your tender thighs. The difference across the hip, accounting for differences in seam allowance is 3 cms (an inch and a quarter).
I still am struggling with the fit through the back, more experimentation required, but I got rid of the front pooling by deepening the front crotch line below the zipper.
I totally love the front yoke and the pockets that slant off it. Sooo handy.
Now I am going out to buy exactly the right fabric and make these jeans again with adjustments. Watch this space.
Fabric: lightweight denim in pewter, Nick's fabrics - $8, scraps of cotton and interfacing.