The welt pockets are set into the front dart. I added a second dart from the waist to add a little more room to the bust:
The back has a large pleat that emerges from the storm flap - the storm flap is flared to allow for a generous front reach:
Lining with vintage viscose:
Well, it did take me 3 weeks to make this coat, so I was right about that. These days sewing for me happens between 7:30- 8:30pm with the last vestiges of energy remaining to me from the day. So I potter about on the machine, making bite sized progress. An hour a day, most days, gives me a coat in 3 weeks.
I really enjoyed the first part of this coat, got bogged down in the middle, and coasted through to the end. Surely the middle part of a long project is the time when most projects languish, when the first flush of energy is gone and the end is nowhere in sight.
This coat was very easy for me to make, but it is without question the most detailed, of all detailed Burda projects, that I have ever made. We have 1) collar with stand 2) decorative top stitching 3) storm flap 4) belt 5) wrist bands with 2 length settings 6) gun flap 7) 18 buttons 8) epaulets with carriers 9) lining 10) welt pockets set into front darts.
That is a lot of detail, blog friends. Funnily enough the details made it easier for me to sew because I could break my sewing sessions into completing a single detail. This is not a coat for people who want the smell of victory after a minor skirmish.
On me, yes I know, leggings and Birkenstocks .... but need I remind you it is the middle of summer here, and I refuse to boil for the sake of a photo shoot:
I am now really desperate for some summer clothing and if I was wise I'd make some. I hate shopping and like to make my own clothes, but at the end of the day I am a hobby seamstress first and foremost, which means I must make whatever I feel like, without reference to when and how it will be worn. That's just the way it is. I've tried fighting it but it's no good: for me it's all about the journey, and the destination is forever a mystery.
I will have to force myself to do something: some shopping or some summer sewing. Hmmm, I wonder which will win?
It's super and now I want to make one! What fabric did you use for the main body?
ReplyDeleteHatty
I love your coat and your priorities! The sewing mojo must rule. And I like your leggings and Birkenstocks. You are validating my own preferences...thank you :)
ReplyDeleteYou'll be here in a little over three weeks, so come shopping with me then in a small, bite sized town with just enough shops for whatever you need. Until then, sew whatever you fancy!
ReplyDeleteThe coat looks amazing, but I expected nothing less of course.
Beautiful coat, just in time for summer!? Your topstitching always makes me feel quite envious.
ReplyDeleteI take umbrage at your talk of Summer, it is still Spring for 3 days yet, and coat making weather, truly...
ReplyDeleteYour coat is fabulous. One hour a day with a toddler is very organized sewing IMO.
You really are quite the fabulous coat-maker! That would take me 3 months, at an hour a day. Impressive welts.
ReplyDeleteI can't stick to projects at all at the moment. I have garments 9summer ones at least!)cut out in every room of the house and am not getting to the sewing machine to stitch them up. 4 more days until Christmas holidays...doesn't look like I will. Might get them done by winter.
What's a storm flap? Is that the annoying bit that means you can walk in the jacket but might find yourself a little damp in compromising places? Excuse my couture ignorance.
ReplyDeleteI'm sure you will get to wear the jacket soon enough. My recollection of Auckland was always heavy drippy summer rain - at least on the weekends.
Beautiful coat, and that lining is fabulous. You do such amazing work!! I'm with you sewing seasonally inappropriate clothing that I just felt like. We're finally having some freezing temps, so naturally I'm working on a short sleeved spring jacket.
ReplyDeleteI'd vote for shopping if you are forcing yourself to do it. Nothing is less fun than forced sewing. Bleah.
The coat is beautiful! I love that you sewed some on it every day knowing that in the end you would end up with a well-fitted garment. As for sewing, do you, because it works best for you!
ReplyDeleteWhat a great coat - you did a superb job!
ReplyDeleteHatty, the fabric is a cotton twill, which is one of the recommended fabrics (the daughter version). I would, however, recommend gaberdine as the twill creases quite easily and it needs to be re-ironed after every use (yeah right!)
ReplyDeleteFantastic coat! The topstitching is amazing, you must have been very patient with this!
ReplyDeleteI would pay to read your blog. Seriously.
ReplyDeleteLove your summary about the course of a project. Totally awesome explanation of the feeling in the middle!!
That is one magnificent coat!! I really like the details on the back; the long pleat and the storm flap. I hope you get some use for it over summer, as well as next year! It's too good to just put away for a few months!
ReplyDeleteI love it! Nicely executed. Isn't it satisfying to finish something with lots of details?
ReplyDeleteYour detail shots are just jaw-dropping! Love the topstitching... everything you make is so professional!
ReplyDeleteYou have output another fantastic coat. I love it!
ReplyDeleteAs I'm researching trench coat patterns, I'm debating set-in vs. raglan sleeves with respect to easing in difficult fabric. Did you find the sleeves on this pattern particularly easy/difficult to set in?
What a beautiful coat.
ReplyDeleteLove the lining, love the topstitching, love the colour!
Good on you for sewing what you want and not what you need!
Amy - a storm flap is the big baggy thing at the back - the idea is the rain slides off it and doesn't drench your back and shoulders.
ReplyDeleteLisa B - Burda shoulder caps are always very high and take a lot of easing and these were no exception. A raglan sleeve is always easier to insert. Good luck with your trench making and please send me a photo when you're done!
Thanks, very useful to know (I am so hopeless at choosing the right fabric by myself!), and I LOVE sewing with gabardine!
ReplyDeleteHatty
I just can't get over how you just whip up coats left and right. You are a sewing dervish! Beautiful work.
ReplyDelete