From "nice" to "interesting" - Burda 7760

When I have a sewing disaster I remember some of the things my sister has told me "if you're not making mistakes, you're not making anything," and "sewing is a journey," and "every garment is a learning experience."

And all of the above applies to Burda's version of the Jalie sweet heart top. I made a full muslin in viscose, which has similar properties to merino wool - it's spongey and slips around a bit and doesn't have great recovery. Only I did not bother finishing my hems, which proved to be my undoing.

The most important alteration with Burda: raising the neckline. They would have us sport a whole lot of cleavage. I take a tuck at the neckline reducing to nothing at the armhole and do the same to the facing.



After a number of other small alterations, I made what was supposed to be my final version in a rib knit merino. All was going beautifully - I used vilene bias tape to secure the edges, used a walking foot and a ball point needle, used a very narrow zigzag stitch for the seam to hold their elasticity and sewed it all up beautifully. When I got to the hems I decided I would use hemming web to secure the hem, and the super stretchy stitch. Well, the hem super stretchyied out - until I had a huge wavering mess. In a panic I took in the side seams, but this only contorted the fabric further, pulling the whole front further and further off grain.

When I tried it on, and looked in the mirror I said to myself, "no, not even for the Sally Army."

If you've ever tried to unpick the super stretchy stitch you'll know that is an exercise in vanity, and because I had to cut in to the fabric to take in the side seams there wasn't much left for me to fix.

I went out and bought some more merino, this time with some lycra to aid recovery. Oh yes that lycra sure does bounce back, it stretches and hugs every curve... and every bulge. Now the fabric was too tight, clinging ungraciously to every fault. I used a twin needle on the hems, as the pattern insisted, and it came out as planned, only I will never be comfortable sporting this degree of anatomical detail to the world.





At this point I considered my options: a fourth attempt, in merino without lycra and praying to the twin needle gods? Could I cut off the worst of the hemming mess on the second top and add a band? Could I wear the third top with a cardigan over the top and shapewear underneath? Should I take a "back fat be damned" attitude and wear it anyway? Or should I remove the bow and turn it into underwear given that this merino is a super soft and snuggly baby weight?

I decided I'd try the middle options. And that is what we have: Burda 7760 with hip band and Burda 7760 sweetheart top with back fat.

Overall I've learned a lot about sewing merino, and stretch, and fitting stretch, but I think the two previous reviewers on Pattern Review who said, "the Jalie one is better" are probably right.

However, there are two advantages to the Burda one: because it is constructed with a front facing instead of small bands to finish the neckline it works well with unstable knits, like merino. Secondly, the bow is super adorable. It's sweet and a little provocative - at the end of the day, it's the details on Burda that keep me coming back. They just know how to take a garment and add a little spice. And spice is what takes a garment from "nice" to "interesting."



The inside of the sleeve is gathered:

Burda 7738.

They are supposedly low rise but does that look low to you??? They are also both fitted and flared, which gives them a distinct retro feel.



From Jackie, jeans guru of the Auckland branch of the Australian sewing guild, I heard about this pattern. This is my first version, aka wearable muslin, in cord. I love love love it.

But I totally stuffed up the back. I am almost too embarrassed to show you the enormous back wedgie. However, in the interests of sewing honesty I am braving my backside.



It's not all bad news though- I got rid of the back baggies by following the method suggested to me by Carol, who runs the ASG. You cut and collapse a wedge out at the bottom of the crotch. I'll show you the pattern piece when I've sorted out the other problems in my next version of these.

It's Me- Made - May and call me perverse, but I've been out shopping and buying lots of new clothes. For me it's way more of a challenge to stop wearing the things I make and go out and buy myself some basics.

I need to shop for clothes though, it's no good me having 'sewing shoulds' - I have to face the facts that with a life regimented by family demands, my sewing time must remain unfettered.

It has been a great thrill to see everyone else's MMM efforts, and to see all the mini wardrobes unfolding - thank you all for sharing. It just goes to show though, what's one person's challenge is another person's TORTURE.

Fabric: wide wale cord from Smart Dress $25, zipper +thread = $6 = $31

Grey days ahead: Burda 09-2009-123

Thank you everyone for your thoughtful suggestions last post. Some great ideas that I will explore further.

My neighbour Jenni was right - I really DID want to make myself a faux fur waistcoat. For me, sewing is a hobby - I make pretty much anything I feel like. I can't bring myself to sew anything that doesn't intrigue me in some way: hey, that's what shops are for. Of course, I need to remind myself of this frequently. Because frequently I go shopping and think, "what! a hundred bucks for a merino top, I could make myself one of these for $20." That's when I need to take myself firmly in hand and say, "yes, but you won't make yourself one for $20. You'll make yourself another coat. Just you wait and see." So far I have been right. So far, I have a coat for every day of the week and am steadily progressing towards one for every day of the month.

You know, fun fur is a bit of a misnomer for this kind of fabric, because so far I'd put it top of my list of things not to sew when you're tired and frazzled. The presser foot gets stuck on the bulk and slides all over the show, it also drags on the faux suede side. I had better luck with movement when I switched to a walking foot but I still had a hard time sewing a straight seam.

If I wasn't so proud I'd show you the mess under the collar but I like to maintain the illusion that I am a sewer in control.

I am going to put some rivets to attach the ties to hold it closed. It's just still a little too warm so I'm wearing it open, but the thick fabric doesn't want to lie flat on the body. Here's the technical view which shows the ties: (courtesy of their website)



This is a really fun little waist coat. I can see myself getting lots of wear out of it - at first I was worried that with all the grey in my hair, and my skin which is also losing pigment, that it would pale me out too much. But there's a kind of resonance in repeating the colours of the body, so I think it looks OK.

I did have trouble sourcing the fabric, because although there is a lot of faux fur on the market this time of year, there's not much that also has the faux suede backing, which is necessary for this style.

You can see I diverted the FBA to a dart in the shoulder. I didn't want a side dart, because I wanted to preserve the vertical lines of fur. I thought about converting to princess seams, but as anyone who ever has to make 2 darts because of an FBA will sympathise, sometimes you really just want to make up the pattern as close to the original as possible. I shortened them as much as I could without causing a ridge.



The back: all I needed to do was shorten the darts.



Costings: Faux fur with faux suede backing on special at Smart Dress Fabrics $25, tracing paper $1, thread 50c = $26.50

Nostalgia

When I was a young lass at university I made myself a couple of shift dresses. When I bought this vintage polished cotton, I though it would suit the style - it's kind of crisp, so it wants a design that needs fabric with a reasonably firm hand.

New look 6909:





So it was a little bit of a trip down memory lane sewing this dress. Only it wasn't - because when I was a young newbie sewer I did not

a) preshrink fabric
b) neaten seams
c) hand stitch hems
d) use interfacing
e) fit, tissue fit, or muslin
f) use invisible zippers
g) line
h) press
i) add wearable ease - I would have made this fitted, no, bursting.

Yes it's a wonder I wore anything at all that I made. And what's more I was SO proud of my efforts. Now I would be tsk tsking and saying as I examined a seam, "well, the main thing is that you enjoyed yourself making it."

At any rate, here it is. I have mixed feelings about it. It's very comfortable, easy to launder, with big slouchy side pockets and it's easy to wear. The print is pretty - but the thing is, it's really hard to find things to wear it with. Wear it with black and it's too hard, it's too busy with most things, and it looks silly belted (I tried) and silly with a necklace (yes I tried that too.)

The slanted pockets:



Maybe my mixed feelings come from my husband after he said, " you look like you're wearing one of those old house wives' aprons."

I'd be the first to say, "don't let anyone dictate taste to you," but it's hard to be convinced when someone else has doubts.

So then I thought, "what would Burda do?" They'd put a faux fur waistcoat over the top and accessorize with a big shiny patent leather bag and bracelets. Maybe I'll go there - maybe not.

Do you remember with fondness any of your early sewing efforts?

Sexy secretary at home.

Ok nothing says "sexy secretary" like a pencil skirt, and this one from Burda magazine (05-2009-104) delivers on all fronts. Pegged in front. Check. Pegged in back causing fabric to draw back in over derriere. Check.



In addition, this pattern offers all those features that stay at home mums love: wash and wear corduroy for stains, hip pockets for toys and house keys, and a walking pleat for bend, stretch, walk and pick up.

And can I say what a joy it is to whip something up? Skirts are the time poor sewer's bestest friend. The only real hassle was making sure to match the herringbone (which is after all a stripe) front, sides and to pockets. If I had been very smug then I would have matched vertically as well, making sure the centre join formed a perfect herringbone. I'm smug, but not that smug.

Simplicity 2508 (better known as: ANOTHER COAT)

Yes I sure have been on a coat roll but that roll has now come to a standstill. Coats + toddlers who don't sleep = dissatisfaction x resentment. So it's farewell to the the coat- athon and hello to simple sewing from now on.

The back: it has one of those back band thingies - I was surprised at its high placement but this is the short coat and it would look odd at waist level.



The buttons I purchased at Salvage (a specialist vintage fabric shop here in Auckland) - I found 8 by rummaging through one of the glass jars - lucky me!



I piped the pockets and back thingy. I thought about piping a few more things but sometimes it's good to know when to stop.



I have been away for the past week in lovely sunny Nelson visiting my sister and Mum (happy birthday Mum!) The time away was wonderful and even more wonderful was sharing the care of a boisterous toddler.

Although I couldn't sew, I did pick up a few vintage patterns from the op shops and some lovely vintage fabric from Eclectic - sadly one of the pieces is moth eaten - something I quickly checked for in the store but didn't do the acid test which is holding it to the light - but I was in love - so in love with the fabric and we all know - love, even fabric love, is blind.

From left to right: polished cotton (Eclectic) houndstooth pinwale cord (Salvage) moth eaten rayon which I will carefully cut around (Eclectic). So expect to see these lovely prints made up some time soon(ish).

This is not Project Runway. I don't have to make it work.

Well who would have believed that I have found the time to make two things from the much mocked January issue of Burda Style?

The first was pure necessity. A winter toddler sized sleep sack for a "little boy who wakes for many reasons at night but let's not make cold one of them" . In fact this is just 01-2010-125 minus the hood and with a lining for comfort and a central zipper wacked in. The outer is merino from Global fabrics which I bought in their 40% sale end of last season. It was supposed to be for me, but then I remembered two things I hate about 100% merino - pilling and endless stretch. Who cares in this emsemble?



The next was a toddler sized emergency services play vest which I agreed to make for our play centre. Dumb, because then I got lots of orders for them, thus increasing my sewing-for-others time in what are already very endangered hours. However, this is also 01-2010-125 with just the front and back and a few closure details.




Then I decided that was certainly enough sewing for others and have embarked on the much loved Simplicity 2508 coat. Big mistake. I truly truly do not have the time and energy for such a big project. I have really learned that now. But still the coat must be finished.... and if you are wondering where the title of this post came from, it's what I told myself as I went back to Global fabrics to buy another metre of fabric for the coat because I had forgotten to cut out the facings and there was no fabric left.

Toddler safety vest: fabric $2, Nicks. Velcro 50 cents, visibility strip - grey fabric left over from another project, thread 50 cents = $3.
Sleepsack: wool, $25, lining $2, zipper $8 = $35.